Train your dog to close your door

Hold a sticky note in your hand to introduce a target.When the dog is consistently responding to the visual cue to touch your hand, it’s time to switch to a target. Hold your target flat in the palm of your hand and encourage the dog to nudge it with itsnose, then click, praise the dog, and offer it a treat when it does.

Sticky notes make a great target because the adhesive makes it easyto transition from targeting your hand to, eventually, the door. However, if you’d prefer to use a different target, that’s fine, as long as you use the same object consistently.

At this point, it’s helpful to practice your training sessions near the door you want the dog to close.
Repeat it  the clicker training with the target for several days.Once you introduce the target, do not reward thedog if it nudges your hand instead of the target. Continue having multiple training sessions a day, with about 10repetitions each time, for 3-5 days. If the dog seems confused about what you expect of it, however, you may need to return to hand targeting for a few days.[6]*.Over the course of your training, gradually move the target so you’re holding with the tips of your fingers, rather than in the palm of your hand
Once the dog consistently nudges the target, you can try moving the target to the door.

Move closer to the door gradually, and add a verbal cue.As your training sessions progress, start moving the target closer to the door, and give the dog the verbal command you eventually want to use to tell it to close the door. For instance, you might say “Door,” “Close,” or “Push.” Just be sure to be consistent with whatever word you use.
You may also want to toss the treat a little away from the door so the dog has to deliberately return to the target each time.


Place the target on the door at nose-height and click if the dog touches it.When you’re ready to transition to targeting the door, close the door and attach the target near the edge of the door. Give your verbal cue and tap the target to get your dog to notice it, then praise the dog enthusiastically the first time it touches the target with its nose.

Even though the door is shut at first, it’s better to pick one spot on the door for the target and use it consistently. By placing the target atthe edge of the door, it will be easier for the dog to close it.

Continue with the same pattern of training—10 repetitions several times a day for three to five  days until the dog is consistently touching the target on the door.If at any point the dog doesn't seem to understand what's going on, go back to the previous training for a few days.

Open the door a little and offer several treats the first time the door moves.Once the dog is very comfortable touching the target on the door, open the door slightly and give it your verbal cue. You may need to tap the target to get the dog to understand that you still want it to perform the same action. However, don’t click or give the dog a treat unless the door moves. When it does, even if it’s only a little, click and praise the dog enthusiastically, then offer several treats to show the dog that’s the result you wanted.Consider putting a towel between the door and the frame so it doesn’t slam shut, which might startle the dog.Did You Know?
Teaching a dog to useits nose to close a door can help prevent the dog from accidentally scratching the door or breaking a pane of glass, which can occur if the dog uses its paw.

Continue opening the door a little wider as the dog gets comfortable.If the first training session goes well, open the door 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) wider during the next session. Gradually increase how much you open the door at each training session, and continue to only reward the dog when the door moves.
As you do this, gradually move farther from the door, but continue to give the verbal command consistently.

Transition to only rewarding the dog when the door shuts.When the dog reliably pushes the door on command,hold back your praise until the door shuts all the way. If the door makes a clicking sound or another noise when it closes, use that as your cue to click and offer a treat. That way, the dog will come to associate the sound of the door closing with the reward.
This step can take a little patience, but continue consistently working with the dog several times a day until it seems comfortable.Leave the target on the door until you’re sure the dog knows that it is supposed to close the door.

Remove the target when the dog masters closing the door.To avoid confusing the dog, wait until it seems very comfortable with the verbal command before you try removing thetarget. However, if the dog still seems unsure of what to do when you remove the target, try gradually making it smaller instead of moving itall at once
For instance, if you used a sticky note, you could cut it in half before atraining session. Try a few sessions with the note that size, then cut it in half again. Keep doing this until the target is so small that you can just remove it.

Train your cat to do handshake with you

Contrary to popular belief, cats can be trained to do tricks if you understand how to motivate them. In fact, many cats relish the one-to-one attention that a training session offers and look forward to it. The easiest way to train a cat is to use a clicker. This way, once the cat understands the link between the unique click-clack sound a clicker makes and getting a reward, there are many tricks you can teach it
One of the simpler tricks for a cat tolearn is giving a handshake.

Teaching Your Cat to Respond to a Clicker1Obtain a clicker.A clicker is a small plastic box that contains a strip of stiff metal. When pressed, the metal makes a distinctive "click-clack" noise. Clickers can be obtained in most pet stores.The theory behind clicker training is that the cat will learn to link a sound(click-clack) with a reward (tasty treat). The nice thing about a clicker  that it is a distinct sound which is only associated with a reward. Thus,the cat is much more likely to respond..Although you can train a cat using just words, it can be more difficult. Because you use words in everyday speech not directed at your cat, the cat probably won't pay a lot of attention to them. Furthermore, if you use a command word such as"shake," the cat will likely hear the word in other contexts and not knowwhen it is expected to respond.

Find a treat your cat enjoys.Cats can be picky eaters, and a treat that one cat enjoys may be of little interestto another. Training will go faster and more easily if you determine in advance what kinds of treats your cat enjoys most.
You may want to try buying a small amount of several different cat treats to try them out and see what your cat likes best.


Chose  a training time.The ideal time for a clicker session is when the cat is relaxed but not asleep, and sitting near you. You can start any time whenthe cat is paying attention.If your cat has just woken up, it may be groggy. If this is the case, give the cat five minutes or so before youbegin training.

Train with the clicker.Once the cat looks alert, press the clicker and give it a treat. Repeat this several times over a period of about five minutes.Cats only have a short attention span, so don't try to continue your clicker session beyond about five minutes.

Repeat the session.Later in the day, or the next day, do another clicker session. Continue repeating these sessions regularly until your cat associates the sound of the clicker with a treat.Each cat learns at a different pace, but most will figure out the link between the clicker and the treat after two or three five-minute sessions.Be consistent, repeating the clicker session once or twice a day, every day, until the cat makes the association.You will be able to recognize when your cat has discovered the connection, because it will gaze at you expectantly and perhaps lick its lips after your press the clicker.

Training Your Cat to Shake1Choose a time and place to train your cat.Once your cat has linked the clicker and a treat, pick a time when itis attentive but relaxed. Just before you would normally feed your cat is a particularly good time, because the promise of treats to a hungry cat will sharpen its responses.

Work in a peaceful place with few distractions so that the cat concentrates solely on you.

Click and reward.Press your clicker and give the cat a treat to remind it of the connection between the clicker and the food.
Command before the click.When the cat starts to frequently lift its paw on its own, try giving the command "shake" without the click. When it places the paw in your hand, then click and reward.

The click promises a reward, and thecommand tells the cat the required action to get it. Your goal is to get the cat to respond to "shake" without the click because it associates the command with a treat.

Reduce the treats over time.Eventually, it will become unnecessary to give a reward each time the trick is performed.
However, do reward the cat at least every three to four times so it doesn't get disheartened.
Always conclude each session with a treat. Ending the session with a treat gives the cat consistent, positive reinforcement of the desiredbehavior.

Train your dog stop from barking

Barking is a dog’s natural form of vocalization. It can, however, also become a problematic behavior if chronic or uncontrolled. If your dog develops a bad barking habit, you can, with the proper techniques and by addressing the underlying cause, teach your dog better behavior Preventing the Dog from Developing the Habit Do not reward the barking by shouting.Training a dog not to bark early on is much easier than breaking the habit once your dog has developed it. One of the keys to this isto avoid ever reinforcing or rewarding barking in the first place. If your dog barks and you shout for quiet, you are rewarding the barking with attention in your dog’s mind. Your dog may even interpret the shouting as your version of barking in response. By mistaking this for approval, your dog is more likely to repeat the behavior. Determine the cause of the barking.After gathering evidence, begin looking for patterns and triggers. Common triggers include:Drawing your attention to a need. Your dog may be looking to get your attention because of an immediate need—to use the bathroom, hunger, thirst, etc.Feeling bored or frustrated. A dog may be bored or frustrated because it has been confined to a particular area or has no outlets for its energy. Barking may be a way for the dog to release anxiety or create a distraction.Feeling afraid. If a person, thing, or noise frightens your dog, it may be barking as a response. You can tell from your dog’s body language whether it’s responding out of fear—a fear posture will include the ears pulled back and the tail lowered.*.Feeling territorial. If a dog perceives a person or other dog as intruding on its territory, it may bark as a way of asserting a claim to that territory. You can often tell when a dog is barking territorially because its ears will be forward and its tail held up high.Feeling excited. Dogs may bark when they’re excited to see you as an expression of their eagerness.Experiencing health issues. If a dog is dealing with health issues like deafness, pain, or mental distress, it may bark as a sign that something is amiss. Take your dog to the veterinarian.If you have any kind of reason to suspect thatyour dog may be barking because of ahealth concern, make an appointmentto see your vet.Keep in mind that older dogs may bark as a result of dementia. If that’s the case, your vet may be ableto prescribe a medication to help your dog cope with the symptoms. Curbing the Barking Eliminate the motivation.Once you’ve determined what’s causing your dog to bark, work on removing the incentive.Your dog barks because it experiences some kind of reward from that behavior. If you remove that payoff, your dog will lose incentive to bark.For example, if your dog barks at passersby while in the house, close the blinds or curtains to block their view. If your dog barks at passersby while in the yard, bring the dog inside when it begins barking at someone.Ignore your dog’s barking.When beginning to re-train your dog, you need to start by not reacting to the barking. Dogs interpret your yelling at them or telling them to stop as attention, which in and of itself reinforces the behavior, regardless of whether you’re angry at or scolding your dog.When your dog barks, don’t acknowledge it in any way. Don’t look at your dog, talk to your dog, pet your dog, and definitely don’t feed or give your dog treats.Be aware that you dog's barking will get worse before it gets better if you need to break an existing habit. When you fail to react after your dogis used to you responding to barking, then the dog will interpret that as a need to bark more becauseit didn’t work. Avoid the urge to acknowledge the barking in any way.You may want to explain to neighbors that you are trying to stopthe barking issue and apologize for the inconvenience in the meantime. If they understand you are trying to do something constructive—rather than just being incredibly irritating—hopefully they will be more sympathetic. Reward quiet.As soon as your dog stops barking, wait a minute to ensure that the dog doesn’t confuse the reason why, and then reward the silence with a treat. If you do this consistently, then your dog will begin to understand that the barking does not receive a reward but the quiet does.Your dog will begin to associate being quiet with receiving a treat. Asthat happens, begin to lengthen the amount of time the dog must be quiet before receiving a reward.If you are utilizing clicker training with your dog, then remember to mark the silence with a click before rewarding the quiet.4Redirect your dog’s attention.When your dog begins to bark, redirect it todo something that will distract it fromthe stimulus..Telling your dog to lie down is a good way to redirect, as it won’t be construed as a reward for barking.When you dog lies down quietly, reward it with a treat--but only once it’s quiet.

Train your dog come to you

Training your dog to come to you when called is not only important for behavior reasons but also  for safety reasons as well. A simple recall command could be the difference between life and death if your dog getsloose and is headed for a busy street. Dogs that respond to this basic command are also allowed to enjoy more freedom outside when involved in activities such as hiking or playing at the dog park. Use a training technique that interests your dog and show him plenty of patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement to help teach him this basic command

Training While on Leash
Have the proper trainer mindset.Thedog will not learn if you do not have the best  frame of understanding. A little research is in order before your first session, and it is always best to take an obedience class with your dog, and train as "homework". But for positive training, keep in mind
Your mood will be picked up by your dog. If you go into training in a funk, or feeling frustrated or angry, likely your pup will feel this too. Although consistency is important, it may be better to skip training that day ratherthan get negative emotions into the mix. Keep training a positive activity
Be sure the dog masters #1 before going to

 A success in one step does not necessarily mean the dog actually "gets it". You still need repetition to be sure the dog is consistent. Be sure the dog can really do the first step every time before going to the second.
Keep sessions short and frequent. Dogs--and especially puppies--typically have short attention spans.Asking a dog to have prolonged periods of intense training may lead to frustration on everyone's parts.
Do not get frustrated if the dog has some failures. When something newis being learned, there will always befailures. This is not a bad thing, just part of learning. If your dog picks up that he or she is disappointing you, and does not really know why, training becomes something bad.
Never punish a dog for obeying a command. If you give a command, you should never, ever give the dog any mixed signals that your signal was bad. If your dog was chasing a deer, and you command, "come" andthe dog comes, praise him or her--donot rebuke him or her for chasing even though you may be upset and want to get across chasing deer is not OK. Your dog will only understand that if he or she comes, he or she is punished and may not come next time.

Choose the right location.As with any new command, you want to start with a location that’s familiar to your dog and free from distractions such as toys, small children, food, loud noises, or other animals.
This allows your dog to focus as much as possible on you, the command, and the behavior you want him to associate it with.if you live with other people, keep them involved in the training process too. This way they will knownot to distract your dog while you’re teaching commands.

Leash your dog.While your dog will later graduate to off-leash developments in the method, the initial training should take place on leash to keep him close and focused on you. Start with a shorter, six-foot leash that keeps your dog close and you more present in his field of vision..Stand an appropriate distance away so that your dog can’t reach you within just a step or two. For a small dog, this may only be two or three feet, whereas you may stand back the entire six-foot length of the leashfor a large dog.

Say “come” and begin taking quick steps backward.Your dog will naturally want to chase you playfully when you start taking fast backward steps away from him.You want to issue the command a single time, ensuring you say it before you begin moving backward.This will allow your dog to hear the command clearlybefore getting distracted by wanting to chase you.Issuing the command one time is sufficient. The more you say to your dog during training, the less likely heis to begin associating any of the words with behaviors..If your dog does not respond and stays put, give your leash a slight tug and encourage him to move toward you.5Consider using a hand signal as well.Signals are a good idea since they further associate the behavior, and they also help in situations whereyour dog can see you, but may not be able to hear you.if you choose to teach with both verbal and hand signals, use a distinct hand signal. Make sure you use the signal and the verbal command at the same time.You can wave your hand toward your body or point at the ground in front of you. Holding your hand out in front of you, palm up, and curling your fingers back onto your palm is another common signal for the come command.Hand signals are additionally helpfulin situations where verbal commands are not so useful, such as near a loud highway.If your dog goes deaf (which is not uncommon in old age or in some breeds) hand signals become especially helpful.

Move backward until your dog reaches you.You want your dog to associate the command with coming all the way to you and not simply running a few feet. To help with this while using the shorter leash, keep backpedaling (carefully not to run intoanything) until your dog reaches you.If you are clicker training your dog, be sure to click as soon as your dog starts moving toward you and when he reaches you. This will reinforce his movement, direction, and good behavior.

Offer positive reinforcement.Once your dog reaches you, offer plenty ofpraise. Repeated positive reinforcement helps your dog to understand that he’s doing what you want with the associated behavior.Though positive reinforcement mostoften takes the form of praise and a treat, use your knowledge of your dog to your advantage. Maybe you know he responds best to being given his favorite toy after obeying acommand.

Add distractions and distance.The key to success is introducing greater distances and distracting environments in small increments that add a new dimension without overwhelming your dog. If you initiallybegin in your quiet living room withoutany toys around, try scattering a few toys next time, and then try turning onthe TV as well the time after that. Next, try moving it to the backyard and using a fifteen-foot leash instead of the shorter one.[11]9Use the method while on walks.One of the best ways to help train on the command consistently is to incorporate it into your daily walks with your dog.
This not only ensures that you’re regularly practicing the command with your dog, but it also provides a variety of different locations and surrounding levels of distraction to challenge your dog to stay focused.

Issue the command without backing up.Your dog will eventually learn to associate the command with the behavior, allowing you to stop taking steps backward to initiate the behavior. Reduce the number of stepsyou take after issuing the command from several to just one or two. After that, work on issuing the command without taking steps backward at all.Remember to be patient. If your dog fails to come when you stand still, go back to taking one or two steps for another day, and try try again.

Best ways to communicate with your cat

These are some methods you can use them to communicate with your cat

Watch your cat’s tail.Like dogs, catscommunicate with the positioning and movement of their tails.

Knowing the signals of tail current  position in conjunction with vocalizations can help you understand the needs and wants of your cat. Some common tail positions include:t
ail straight up with a curl at the end: This indicates happiness.

Tail twitching: Your cat is excited or anxious.
Fur on tail sticking up or bushy: Yourcat is excited, playful, or feels threatened.
Tail vibrating: The cat is very excitedand happy to see you.
Tail fur sticks straight up while the tail curls in the shape of an N: This is a sign of extreme aggression and may be present during fighting or self-defense.
Tail fur sticks straight up but the tailis held low: Your cat feels aggressive or frightened.
Tail held low and tucked under the rear: Your cat feels frightened.

see at your cat’s eyes.Gazing into your cat’s eyes can help you bond with him/her and read his feelings. Beaware, however, that direct staring without blinking may be interpreted as a position of aggression that makes your cat uncomfortable.
If your cat’s pupils are dilated, he/she is feeling either very playful or excited or quite fearful or aggressive; use other behavior cues to determine which it is.
A cat staring into your eyes indicates that he/she trusts you andis comfortable around you.

A cat slowly blinking his/her eyes may be showing affection, indicating the cat is comfortable with whoever might be around him/her.
Notice other body language.Since cats are more "fluent" than humans in body language, certain gestures willaccompany vocalizations to reinforce their message.
 cat lifting her nose and tilting his/her head back slightly is saying"I acknowledge you." Cats sitting in windows may greet you in this manner as you walk by.
A cat may lay his/her ears back if he/she feels fear, anxiety, or playfulness. This may also be seen when cautiously sniffing something he/she wants to know more about.
A cat who flicks her tongue out slightly and licks his/her lower lip is showing that he/she is worried or apprehensive.4Identify communicative behaviors.Some of a cat’s communication withyou is based on how he/she behaves when he/she is around you. Certain behaviors have consistent meaning among most cats.
A cat rubbing against you is marking you as his/her property.A wet nose "kiss" is an affectionate feline gesture in which the cat taps his/her wet nose to you. This meansthat he/she likes and feels comfortable around you.A cat rubbing his/her head, flank and tail against a person or animal is showing an act of greeting.
Playful head-butting is a show of friendliness and affection.Cats will sniff a person’s face to confirm his/her identity based on the familiarity of the smell.A cat will rhythmically knead with his/her paws, alternating between the right and left feet, as a sign of happiness, contentment, or playfulness. Kneading is an indication that your cat knows and trusts you.
A cat licking you is showing the ultimate sign of trust. Your cat may consider you to be a part of his/her family, like a mother cleaning her kittens.If your cat tries to eat your hair, he/she may be trying to "groom" you. This means your cat really loves you and trusts you.few cats will show they really love you by copying what you do. You can test this by playing dead on the floor. The cat may sniff or nudge you, then play dead too.f your cat bites you with little force, it is a warning for you to leave him/her alone.

Easily take care of your cat

Decide if you want a kitten or a full-grown cat.cats are adorably tempting, but be honest with yourself about whether you'll be able to match that energy level, and handle that levelof responsibility. Shelters are full of loving adult cats who have a much harder time getting adopted. An adult cat will be calmer and quieter than a kitten, but may also have behavioral issues from its early life. Adult cats may also have medical conditions you'll have to address sooner than you would with a kitten. Also, kittens often scratch very painfully; Decide if you want that.

Consider medical concerns that may come with a specific kitten.If you have your eye on one cat, in particular,ask about its medical history to see if it requires any long-term care. Would you be able to afford this cat's medical needs?Even if the cat is healthy, consider its breed. Purebred cats of different breeds can have their own genetic problems to overcome. example,flat-faced cats like Manx and Scottish folds often develop breathing problems.Purebred cats are more likely to have genetic medical problems thannon-pedigreed cats

Consider the amount of time you spent on cat.While a cat doesn't need daily walking like a dog, don't be fooled into thinking that cats and kittens aren't a time commitment. They're still active pets that need a lotof play, and affectionate companions who demand attention. You'll also spend time cleaning the litter box and giving the cat structured meals.The average lifespan of an indoor cat is 13-17 years, so be aware that you're making a long-term commitment to a new family member.

Calculate whether you can afford a cat or not.The one-time purchase fee for a cat can range from $45 for a shelter adoption to several hundred dollars for a purebred cat. Beyond that, though, you'll have to pay for food, litter, toys, and regular medical expenses. The ASPCA estimates that in the first year of owning a cat, you will likely spend about $1,035 on it.
(That amount goes down after you've bought the major equipment and had your initial medical procedures.)

Consider adopting a cat from an animal shelter.The cost is minimal considering what you get: a fully vaccinated, health examined, and spayed or neutered cat.Any “free” cat is ultimately going to cost you those things down the line, if you're a responsible cat

 some cats will prefer the litter box to other parts of the house because ofthe texture of the litter. But, there are still steps you need to take to make sure you're offering the litter box as the best place to use the bathroom.Place the box in a quiet spot where the cat won’t be bothered by people, dogs, or loud noises.To keep the litter box clean, make sure you scoop the litter daily, and clean the box weekly. You should also replace or refresh the litter at least once a week.Provide enough litter boxes for morethan one cat. If you have two cats, you need 3 litter boxes in different areas of the home. One cat might try to intimidate a less dominate cat awayfrom using a single box.

Make the litter box a comfortable place.Don't frighten or startle your catwhen it's using the box, or it may forma bad association with the box and start avoiding it. Buy a large box, evenif you have to spend a little money on it. Cats are more comfortable in a larger (in area, not height) box.[9]*.Don’t switch brands of litter on your cat, because cats don’t like sudden change. Switching from a clay litter to a scoopable clumping type of litter or vice versa might upset the cat so much it stops using the box.Don’t use heavily scented litters thatmight deter a cat from litter box use.

Decide what type of food to feed your cat.Cat food comes in a vast array of types: dry food, semi-moist, and canned are the common types. Dry food is easily and efficiently stored, but cats go wild for the taste of semi-moist and canned foods. The latter types can add more fluid to the cat’s diet than dry foods. In general, food type comes down to owner preference.Occasionally, a cat with a medical condition might need one type over another. Consult your veterinarian for recommendations.
Choose a good brand of cat food.Like other animals, cats have some specific nutritional needs. They are"obligate carnivores," which means they need animal proteins to avoid severe health consequences.Ask your vet for suggestions about a goodquality food. Cheaper products may not provide enough nutrition to keep your cat happy and healthy.
.Look for cat foods that list large amounts of animal meat like beef, chicken, turkey, or fish.Also look for important amino acids like taurine and arginine and fatty acids like arachidonic and linoleic acid.Avoid feeding your cat human foodsunless you have cleared the food with your veterinarian. Some human foods can make a cat severely sick or are even toxic to cats (e.g., chocolate or any other sweet).

Train your cat some amazing tricks

Same like many other pets, cats can be trained to do tricks. Because they tend to be independent, teaching cats can take persistence, however. With positive reinforcement and patience, your cat can have a great time playing games and performing a many tricks.

 Get a supply of treats.Cats need to be constantly rewarded with tasty treats in order to learn tricks. Keep plenty of your cat’s favorite bite-sized treats on hand when you are trying to train it. Give your cat frequent treats when training it in short sessions.

You can also vary treats frequently to keepyour cat interested.some good choices are.Diced chicken,Bits of tuna,Commercial cat treats,Small pieces of dry foodVeterinarian Pippa Elliott MRCVS has this tip: "All cats have at least one food they will do just about anything for. If your cat seems disinterested in treats, you just haven't offered the right one yet. Keep experimenting by offering different tidbits and eventually you'll hit on one that excites the cat."

Get cat’s attention.Your cat won’t want to learn tricks if she is not in the mood. Starting by giving your cat a treat might get its attention. If your cat doesn’t act interested in learning a particular trick, don’t force it to play—just be patient and try again later.
Use a clicker.A pet clicker is a smalldevice that makes a clicking sound. Every time your cat does something you want it to (like a trick), make the clicking sound and give it a treat. The sound and positive reinforcement (reward) of the treat condition your cat to repeat the behavior..Pet clickers can be found at pet supply stores. If you can’t find one, you can try a pen that makes a clicking nois

Keep training sessions short and frequent.Cats learn through repetition, so frequent training sessions will help them master a trick. Try repeating tricks several times each day.Keeping training sessions brief will also hold your cat’sattention so it will want to keep training

Repeat tricks when training your cat.When your cat completes a trick, give it a treat. Then try to get your cat to repeat the trick five-ten times in a row (giving it a treat each time), as long as it is interested. This repetition will encourage the behavior.

Don’t use cue words until after the cat has learned a trick.For instance, ifyou want your cat to sit down, don’t use the word “sit” until it is used to doing the trick. This will help the cat associate the word specifically with the trick.Teach one trick at a time.Positive reinforcement like praise and treats as your cat learns a trick will help it tomaster the behavior. Trying to teach itmore than one trick at a time can confuse it, however, because it may not understand what behavior is beingrewarded. Wait until your cat has mastered one trick before moving on to the next. Don't  punish your cat for not learning a trick.Cats learn when givenrewards and positive reinforcement, not when they are punished. Scolding or punishing your cat when it doesn’t complete a trick will only make it stressed or disinterested. If you cat doesn’t act interested in learning a trick, or doesn’t perform successfully, just try again later. Take cat breaks sothey look forward to learning.

Teach Your Cat Specific trick
Teach your cat to sit.When your cat is on all 4 feet, hold a treat in front of its face to get its attention. Slowly move it from in front of the cat’s face to just between its ears.so Many cats will follow the treat in the air and lower their rear end to get it. When your cat sits, positively reinforce its behavior by praising it and giving it the treat.If you cat’s rear end doesn’t quite touch the ground the first time, give it the treat anyway. Keep repeating this training and your cat can get better each time.
Teach your cat to “hi-five.” First, go and encourage your cat to move its paw by giving it a treat each time it lifts the paw off of the ground. Then, put a treat in your hand (wrapped in your fist, for instance), and wait for your cat to use its paw to try and grab it out of your hand. Give the cat a treat as a reward when it does. Repeat this many times, gradually lifting your hand up higher each time until the behavior resembles giving a hi-five.
Train your cat to come when called.Try this training your cat for this trick at is mealtimes, because it will already be hungry. Call your cat’s name and tap on its food bowl to get its attention. When your cat comes, praise them and give them a treat.When your cat gets used to coming when called, you can also use the command “come” for this trick.You can vary this trick by trying to train your cat to come from distances increasingly farther away, from outside to inside, etc.